Everything Old
is Cool Again
GROOVY VINTAGE FASHION FROM THE UKRAINIAN DIASPORA
September 20, 2019 - May 2, 2020
Not all Museum treasures come from the distant past.
This show unpacks Mama’s and Baba’s boxes for a nostalgic look back at Ukrainian-Canadian style in the 1960s and 1970s, when embroidery adorned almost everything from home decor and handbags to the ubiquitous a-line dress.
Vyshyvani Vechornytsi • Embroidered soirées
During the 1960s and 1970s, the fashion world was experiencing a revolution in style as a response to the global events of politics and war. At this time as well, Canada adopted its first policies on multiculturalism which ignited a cultural pride in many communities. Ukrainians in the diaspora exhibited pride in their beloved vyshytia which they now interpreted onto the modern fashion of those eras. Embroidered Soirees were typically hosted by Ukrainian Women’s Associations as fundraisers. These Vyshyvani Vechornytsi were fashion shows that showcased embroidered handiwork and the personal style of those who created them.
Beautifully embroidered garments were proudly modeled at Embroidered Soirees by the person who created them, a family member or a friend. The contestants would form a large circle and parade around for a jury to evaluate and for all the guests to see. The garments would be evaluated by the jurors on three criteria: the origin of the embroidery motif, the style of the garment and the application of the embroidery to the article of clothing. After the stress of competing, a zabava (dance party) would continue the evening’s festivities late into the night where everyone could socialize and admire each others’ embroidered handiwork.
Weddings
Weddings are steeped in tradition along with the attire and all that accompanies a wedding. Couples took pride in incorporating traditional rituals and motifs into their wedding day celebrations. Traditional embroidery was incorporated into wedding invitations, bridal gown design or bridal party attire.
Vinoks (flower crowns) were often worn as a headdress. The bride’s vinok would be removed after the wedding by her mother and mother-in-law and replaced with a Ukrainian motif scarf which was tied around her head, symbolizing her status as a married woman.
Children’s clothing
Children’s clothing was also decorated with vyshyvanka. Lovingly embroidered by a mother, baba, aunt or friend, these items would be passed on down through the family to siblings or cousins and then, even on to the next generation.
Formal wear & accessories
Whether a garment was worn by a choral group, a wedding guest or, a special occasion such as Ukrainian School graduation, embroidered attire was popular and very appropriate for any Ukrainian event.
Embroidery adorned everything from home décor and handbags to jewellery and accessories, as well as household items.
The 1970’s were in full swing and women’s popular fashion of the time included embroidered peasant blouses and ankle length maxi dresses while men’s fashion was largely influenced by bright colours and textures. Bell-bottom pants or frayed jeans were popular for both men and women and Ukrainian embroidery lent itself easily to all of these fashion statements.
Cultural Pride: A Modern Revival
Almost half a century later, the Millenials and Gen Z are inheriting a turbulent world reminiscent of what the Baby Boomers faced. Ukraine’s Revolution of Dignity in 2014 reignited a cultural pride in the global Ukrainian community, inspiring people to don ethnic textiles as mainstream fashion. The fashion industry took note and traditional garments especially vyshyvanky (embroidered shirts and garments) and vinky (flower crowns), emerged on runways around the world.
Thinking about the art of vyshytia and the phenomenon of vyshyvanka, it appears Ukrainian embroidery was never meant to be confined to folklore museums or ethnic studies.
Ukrainian vyshytia lives, breathes and evolves with each generation. Whether in Ukraine or the diaspora, it will always be a part of our lives.”
